Thai landscaping is all about creating atmosphere. Allow me to elaborate. We're staying in a 70? suite apartment building; the owners own a specatular home on the same property. They have a private, fenced in property, complete with gardeners and who knows what other staff. They own a swimming pool that rests between the apartment and their home, which they have graciously allowed tenants access to. The landscaping around the pool reflects Bhuddist values of peace and serenity; there are large tropical trees strategically planted to give shade on the deck. There are two white flowering trees, one on each side of the pool, planted in such a way that white flowers drop into the pool and float on the surface, creating amazing atmosphere! The owner's private grounds are planted with a beautiful garden of shrubbery, and has lovely, low wrought iron fencing enclosing it. I love it! and hope to expand my planning abilities for landscaping at home. Pigeons and doves lazily fly overhead to rest in the branches above, and coo for us to complete the effect.

Because of our close proximity to the equator (at least a heck of a lot closer than Lowe Farm's!), days and nights seem to be given equal status. As the sun drifts to the horizon and a hazy darkness comes to wrap itself around me, thegentle presence of pigeons gives way to night sounds of urban tropics.

Funnily enough, there are few mosquitoes. The few bites I have had, have welted signifcantly. They must like new blood!

Some nights, the chirping and croaking has been so loud, we wondered what was going on! It's a beautiful song I could listen to forever.

At any rate - walking down the lane in broad daylight, things come into harsh perspective as I look down and see huge frog road kill... flat brown frogs decorating the urban landscape.

The other day, Josh and I went for a walk down to a local fruit and vegetable market. Quite the experience. Local merchants selling the usual fruit and vegetables, cheap jewellry, hot food, AND raw fish and slabs of meat out for people to pick out for dinner. As we walked along, a live catfish jumped of captivity (a bucket of water) out on the path in front of us. No one knew exactly what to do as it flounced and flipped on the ground. Josh took control, reached out and gingerly grabbed it by the gills and dropped it back into the bucket. Hero of the day! He kept wiping his hand on his pants as we finished our trek to the market.

The day of our Tuk Tuk Fiasco, we had walked through a busy market filled with hot food dishes, fresh fish, fruit, newspapers, fried somethings, tourist paraphanalia.... Thursday, Gwen and I decided it was not a good idea to sit in our apartment alone any longer, and decided to venture out on our own, back to the same area. No, we did not take a Tuk Tuk; we took a taxi (where much of our cash seems to go); we arrived at the pier knowing we looked like the tourists we were, but determined to have a wonderful time, but not be taken in AGAIN. The last time we tried to get a ride on a longboat, the people at the pier told Rob a one hour tour would cost 2000 baht, or over $60.00 per person. When we refused, they turned the page over and voila, the fare dropped to 900 baht.

This time, Gwen and I, determined we would not pay 900 baht, sauntered toward the counter. A woman honed in on us immediately. Cautiously, we asked the fare, wondering what she would come up with. This day, it was 900 baht. Too much. After some negotiations ( we were fresh and rested, and determined to get on the water), we settled on 600 bhat.

Off we went. A beautiful longboat! Powered by a gas motor, with a long guide/balancing pole in the back, the boatman guided us through traffic - a river full of various rivercraft ranging from longboats like the one we were on, to large tourist boats - all seeming to move in different directions. We headed for the canals of Bangkok. I would never have known this exquisite face of Bangkok existed if we had stayed home. The canal system in Bangkok seems to resemble that in Venice, with homes, restaurants, art galleries, and gardens, lining its banks. Tropical gardens, living room windows, porches, fishing dinghies hanging under overhangs, women cleaning restaurant pails in the river, men reading newspapers on the porch, young people sitting around tables visiting; lovely. Many of the homes in this area are obviously those of the rich. There are also many that look like they are ready to fall into the river. Foundations are rotting, tin roofs are deteriorating, and window shutters are sagging.

I took pictures like a good little tourist, and revelled in the smells of the tropics.

My mind reels with ideas. I know, there are those out there who know only too well that means! And we're not even finished the outhouse! Or the moose!

Ah well, I can try!

Lunch - more than ready for lunch. Back on land, we made our way to a stall with particularly attractive bowlsl (huge) of who knows what. I feasted on an Indian red chicken curry dish - tasted a little like butter chicken. Fabulous! And watermelon slices for dessert.

After getting stuck for over an hour in traffic (Bangkok is a city of 15,000,000 people), all that was left to do was to shower and drop into bed for a rest. What a life!

not all donuts are created equal!

For a price, Ex-Pats living in Bangkok can take the 10 minute walk (20 if you're on crutches and afraid to cross the street) over to the American grocery store. You can find many items from back home like grapes, bread, butter, cream (very important!), cheese, chocolate, you get the idea. I could see myself finding my way there regularly if I lived here for any length of time - but at a price.

Just starting to get over a bug of some sort, and wary of street food, Gwen and I wound our way though parked motorcycle taxis on the sidewalk, vendors, buddhist shrines, across a busy intersection and over to the much anticiipated sight of canned soup from home. Campbell's Chicken Noodle to be exact.

One can of soup, a small loaf of bread, milk, a Pomellow (kind of like grapefruit), and a bit of peppercorn creamcheese later, we headed for the door - till we notic ed they had a corner stall allocated to Dunkin Donuts! WELL - who can resist?

We chose carefully, wanting as much pleasure from each bite as possible.

When you see those triangle tasties with the flakey icing and caramel drizzle on them, DO NOT BUY THEM!

I took one bite, and thought it strange - they didn't taste a bit like they looked! I took another bite, and realized they really DID NOT taste good. I wondered if I was sicker than I thought, or if there was something wrong with these things. I thought I'd ask Gwen when she got up from her nap, but didn't have opportunity to before Josh and Randi walked in the door, home from work. Josh went straight to the donut box, took one look, and asked with derision " what? you bought (I think it was salt pork?) donuts? They're terrible! Why did you buy them? They look like they have mold on them!

A day later, and the donuts wait for us. Up on the fridge. I glance at them in pity and a pang of regret, knowing we will never eat them, but unwilling to throw them out - quite yet - if only....

Thais love their king - I believe I've already mentioned that. Thais also love their country. Sunday evening, while we were at the market, the Thai national anthem started playing on loudspeakers. EVERYONE - I mean many thousands of people, stopped everything they were doing, stood at attention, and listened or sang along respectfully. How much we can learn! Apparently this happens all the time. Anywhere, any time, the anthem will begin playing, and people stop what they're doing to show respect.

We have been treated very well at the guest house we've been staying at. Even to the point where they bought Gwen lunch from the Vietnamese restaurant accross the street, and make us tea when we're sitting out on the front porch. We have business cards if anyone is interested!

Is it Montezumi's revenge? It's someone's revenge, that's for sure; something we ate is not sitting well with Gwen and myself. Not dreadfully ill, just off. And empty!

We hadn't brought a lot of clothes to Chiang Mai with us, so after 4 days, walked over to the lady down the street who has a laundry service in her home. She is a beautiful middle aged woman with an amazing toothless smile. She washed our clothes, sun-dried them, and ironed and folded them for the equivilent of about $5.00. That smile and the beautiful job she did was worth much more.

Well, gotta run! (again).

I have spent the last 2 weeks watching and absorbing. This evening Gwen and I walked to an evening market. We were given instructions to walk to the bridge, cross over, and we'd be there. Sure enough, that's just what we did. Only the bridge we were instructed to cros was BEHIND us, not ahead of us, so we walked; and walked before we got to a bridge. It was a beautiful evening, as all the evenings have been since we got here, so it was not an issue of suffering for experience.

I have now picked up large bags of green tea, wild yellow ginger tea, jasmine tea, and lemon grass tea. Tea lovers of the world, unite! And come for tea...

We have been told numerous times that this is a culture where people are all happy, smiling, content.

Somehow that hasn't totally meshed with some of the things I have observed. As I have watched, I have seen smiling people, yes; but I have also seen a sorrow behind the eyes, deeper than surface language can express. We have not been staying in the darker areas of the city, but somehow I have suspected there must be one. Tonight we were climbing the stairs up the river crossway when my crutches almost tripped on a man sleeping halfway on the stairs and landing. I tried not no trip on him when

closer inspection I realized he actually looked dead. His face had a still, waxy pallor, and his hands were utterly still. No breath was visible to the eye.

Tonight we saw a suffering part of Chang Mai. The market was full, and noone noticed him.

I almost forgot; there is one aspect of my trip that disturbs me. Really disturbs me. In Canada and the rest of the world, Thailand has gained a reputation of being a haven for a major sex trade. I wish I could say it is a false report, but everywhere I look, I see men - particularly caucasian men with young Thai girls. When we were in Koh Samet, we saw many of these couples there for the weekend. Some of these guys were decrepid, fat old men who were obviously there with girls that were NOT their wives - or daughters. Some of the men I've seen look decidedly uncomfortable - and rightly so! I feel like going up to them and asking if their wives and families know what they're up to. Instead, I pray.

I have almost forgotten what day it is. Hot, humid days have drifted into sultry tropical nights, and if I allowed it, time could almost be forgotten. Except that Rob left for home today, and the next week will be without him. So many stories, so many impressions to hold on to. As Rob has been known to observe (couldn't be accurate), I love to make a short story long; so settle in with a coffee and allow me to meander through the black hole of my mind - oh no... Not a black hole! Through delicious memories to savor and enjoy!

Let me tell you about Dang - at least I Think that's his name! Dang owns a little backyard eating establishment down the lane from the apartment we've been living at in Bangkok. He and his sister run it. He makes people feel at home, and she cooks over a little propane hotplate set up under a series of tarps and under the shade of tropical plants and trees. He speaks very good English, so we visit when we come for lunch. A lunch comprised of sticky rice, marinated pork or chicken, or other main course and a drink costs 53 baht or approximately $1.50... 2 of us can eat great for about $3.00.

Dang has been very helpful, making us feel at home in a strange city. The other day, Dang's sister had to go to hospital for some kind of surgery, so was not there to cook; their 80 or so year old mother took over the position! We sat and watched as people began to line up for food, and she moved slowly to make one dish at a time. No pressure! Dang was kept very busy bringing dishes of food back into the house to microwave them for clientelle that got cold food! We watched and gained a wonderful glimpse of how Thai family works. They all treated this old lady with respect, and noone said a word about the food to her. May we treat our elderly treasures with the same honor. We brought a few Co-op 2010 calendars with us; we hope to give one of them to Dang as picture of where WE come from.

We came to Chiang Mai with wonderful family; Josh and Randi have treated us with the same honor that Dang treated his mother.... let's hope we move a little faster! I can't say enough about these two treasures. They have been so much fun, and have planned so many great things for us to go see. Even though I have had to sit out on a lot of the hiking and longer walking expeditions.

Chiang Mai is a lovely old city an hour's flight north of Bangkok. We stayed in a hotel with wonderful Thai decorating and great morning buffet the first 2 nights. It's situated in a neighbourhood filled with little eating places, a fabulous bakery and coffee shop, massage shops, small personal laundry service, buddhist shrines, travel agents, and guest houses. We enjoyed great coffee at the bakery before going to the hotel breakfast where the coffe was less than palatable. For some reason, people here have no concept of cream for your coffee. You either get milk, evaporated milk (if you're lucky), or coffee mate. I know, I'm deprived!

Night market Saturday night was fun - at least that's what they say - I walked too much, and my foot was pretty swollen and painful, so I obeyed my husband (who has been taking impeccable care of me), and went to bed. Kids, you should be proud of me! I didn't even complain or dig in my heels!

Sunday was spent taking a taxi to a beauiful national park and waterfall. Just a few weeks has made an incredible difference in the vegetation here. Rainy season is over, and lush jungle is giving way to a dry forest that could go up in flames at the slightest provocation. We sat on vinyl matting lent to us by the outdoor restaurant where we bought marinanted chicken and pork with sticky rice... rocks by the fifth level of tropical waterfall watching Thai families enjoying water and family; feels like home.

After an hour or two, off to see a temple far up the top of a mountain on the other side of town. We had hired a Safari Truck for the afternoon, so he drove us around, bringing his wife along for company.

The temple grounds were impressive. I looked upward at the thousand stairs going straight up to the temple at the top (or so it seemed) and knew this was one walk I would gladly forego. I bought a bottle of water and watched as throngs of humanity converged on this site. I saw a diverse mixture of devoted buddhists, young and aged alike, making their pilgrimage to pray. I saw tourists, like ourselves, coming to see the sights. I saw vendors hawking their wares along both sides of the staircase. I saw rude foreigners imposing on women selling flowers for worshippers going up - bringing huge cameras within feet of tired women, spending many moments getting angles and photo compositions exact while these ladies sat uncomfortably, wishing the jerk would disappear. I saw a lucrative business made of selling flowers and buddhas to anyone who would fall for the loudest salesperson.

So - we are all in need of a Saviour.

Thai architecture is exqusite. So much we could glean from them in the art of worship.

We left the mountain, and moved to the lovely little guest house we are staying in for the next 2 nights. Less expensive, new experience. We found a great Thai restaurant near the river for dinner.

We went to Sunday market. I wouldn't have missed it - teeming with life. Food vendors, blind musicians, wheel chair bound lottery sales persons; stalls filled with clothes, essential oils, lanterns and lamps, wood carvings, cheap jewellry, silk cushion covers, exquisitely hand woven and cross-stiched bedspreads and table cloths (which I hardly even dared look at, they were so expensive); cold juices (my personal favorite, Coconut water), posing children in traditional outfits, toys.

Did I mention food? I don't think I've ever been to a place with so much food everywhere you look. Rice, crispy deep fried baby sardines, chicken kabobs, fruit, noodle dishes, stir fries, you name it.

Oh - did I also mention that in the middle of this incredible throng of thousands of people, thousands of miles from home, we met Laurel, Rosie, and Alana's old roomate Cayleen? Cayleen and her sister Coralie just happened to be at the same market at the same time, and were leaving at the same time as we were. We keep having these amazing things happen to us.

Let me tell you about the Vietnamese restaurant across the street from us. It looks to be set up in the family garage, run by who else, the family!

They have an assembly line of burners and pots set up in the front, on which they do their cooking. They have a rice batter mixed, and pour it onto some kind of metal plate covered with water, thus steaming it into a crepelike pancake. They then dab 4 spots of a sweet chili/meat mixture on it, fold it into a wonton square shape, and serve it with sweetened coconut milk and peanuts. They also have a deepfried rice crepe that they fold up, and serve with ground fresh carrots, cucumber chunks, bits of hot red pepper, bean sprouts, and a dressing reminiscent of Thousand Island. Fabulous! Time for a Vietnamese and Thai cookbook!

Tomorrow we go to the zoo. Cayleen says we get to feed giraffes - I believe I have done that for some time! Should feel like home.

Home - I enjoy each moment we're here, but home is still home.

I miss watching the Olympics; the TV here has strange taste in entertainment. Thai boxing (in Thai), Thai or Japanese or Russian soccer (don't they know what football is)?, bits and pieces of CNN which tell me the US is on the brink of war with Iraq, and what appears to be Thai soap oprahs.

Let me watch the Olympics!

Tonight we go to the Miss Chocolate House - a 100 year old chocolalte/tea shoppe just down the street from us for some decadent fall from discipline.

Sorry Rob.